Weights - Measurements & Conversions

Equivalent Measures of Length 1 meter (m) 39.37 inches (in.) 1 centimeter (cm) 0.39 in. 1 millimeter (mm) 0.039 in. 1 yard (yd) 91.44 centimeters (cm) 1 foot (ft) 30.48 cm 1 inch (in.) 2.54 cm

Household Measures (Approximate) 1 drop 1/20 mL 1 teaspoon 5 mL 1 tablespoon 15 mL 1 cup 250 mL

Weight and Apothecaries' Equivalents 1 milligram (mg) 1/65 grain (1/60) 1 gram (g) 15.43 grains (15) 1 kilogram (kg) 2.20 pounds (avoirdupois) 1 pound (avoirdupois) 453.6 grams 1 grain (gr) 0.065 gram (60 mg) 1 ounce (1/16 pound) 28.4 grams

Fluid Equivalents 1 fluid ounce (oz.) 29.57 mL (30) 1 pint (pt.) 16 fl. oz. 473.2 mL (500) 1 pint, In the Imperial system 20 fluid ounces 1 quart (qt.) 946.4 mL (1000) 1 quart, In the Imperial system 40 fluid ounces 1 gallon (gal.) 3785.6 mL (4000) 1 gallon, In the Imperial system 160 fluid ounces

Metric System Weights and Measures 1 kilogram (kg) 1000 grams (103) 1 milligram (mg) 0.001 gram (10-3) 1 microgram (µg) 0.000001 gram (10-6) 1 liter (L) 1000 mL (103) 1 milliliter (mL) 0.001 L (10-3) 1 microliter (µL) 0.000001 L (10-6) 1 milliliter (ml) 1 cubic centimeter (cc)

Weight - Unit Conversion Factors Units Given Units Wanted For Conversion Multiply By lb g 453.6 lb kg 0.4536 oz g 28.35 kg lb 2.2046 kg mg 1,000,000 kg g 1,000 g mg 1,000 g µg 1,000,000 mg µg 1,000 mg/g mg/lb 453.6 mg/kg mg/lb 0.4536 µg/kg µg/lb 0.4536 Mcal kcal 1,000 kcal/kg kcal/lb 0.4536 kcal/lb kcal/kg 2.2046 ppm µg/g 1 ppm mg/kg 1 ppm mg/lb 0.4536 mg/kg % 0.0001 ppm % 0.0001 mg/g % 0.1 g/kg % 0.1

Conversion Formulas

Gallons into Pounds: Multiply the specific gravity of the liquid by 8.33* (weight in pounds of 1 gallon of water); then multiply this result by the number of gallons, to obtain the weight in pounds.

Pounds into Gallons: Multiply the specific gravity of the liquid by 8.33* (weight in pounds of 1 gallon of water); then divide the number of pounds by the result, to obtain the volume in gallons.

Milliliters into Grams: Multiply the specific gravity of the substance by the number of milliliters, to obtain the weight in grams.

Grams into Milliliters: Dividethe number of grams by the specific gravity of the substance, to obtain the volume in milliliters.

Milliliters into Pounds: Multiply the number of milliliters by the specific gravity of the substance; then divide the product by 453.59 (equivalent in grams of 1 avoirdupois pound), to obtain the weight in pounds.

Pounds into Milliliters: Multiply the number of pounds by 453.59 (equivalent in grams of 1 avoirdupois pound); then divide the product by the specific gravity of the substance, to obtain the volume in milliliters.

Milliliters into Ounces: Multiply the number of milliliters by the specific gravity of the substance; then divide the product by 28.35 (equivalent in grams of 1 avoirdupois ounce), to obtain the volume in ounces.

Ounces into Milliliters: Multiply the number of ounces by 28.35 (equivalent in grams of 1 avoirdupois ounce); then divide the product by the specific gravity of the substance, to obtain the volume in milliliters.

Grains, Drams, and Ounces into Grams (or mL): 1) Divide the number of grains by 15; or 2) multiply the number of drams by 4; or 3) multiply the number of ounces by 28.35. The result in each case equals the approximated number of grams (or mL).

Kilograms into Pounds: Multiply the number of kilograms by 2.2046, or multiply the number of kilograms by 2 and add 10% to the product.

Pounds into Kilograms: Divide the number of pounds by 2.2046, or multiply by 0.4536

Pet Packing May 25, 2006

Pet Packing May 25, 2006
Prepare for your travels with your pooch for a fun and safe time.

Make sure vaccinations are up-to-date, keep medical records and medicines handy, and update the I.D. tag with a cell phone number. Take along plenty of bottled water -- the water at your destination may upset your dog's system. Take a favorite toy. Always keep your dog on a sturdy leash, and carry a picture of your pet in case of loss.

Evacuation policy for pets backed

Evacuation policy for pets backed

House bill requires preparedness offices to protect Fluffy, too

12:38 AM CDT on Tuesday, May 23, 2006

Associated Press

WASHINGTON – A television shot of a little boy losing his dog during Katrina rescue operations was the catalyst for House passage Monday of legislation requiring pets to be considered in future emergency preparedness plans.

DallasNews.com/extra

Hurricane forecast: 'very active'

Evacuation policy for pets backed

Multimedia
• 90 miles on I-90
• How hurricanes destroy
• 150 years of hurricanes

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

"The dog was taken away from this little boy and to watch his face was a singularly revealing and tragic experience," said Rep. Tom Lantos, D-Calif., sponsor of the Pet Evacuation and Transportation Standards Act. "This legislation was born at that moment."

The bill, passed 349-24, requires that state and local preparedness offices take into account pet owners, household pets and service animals when drawing up evacuation plans. Offices that fail to do so would not qualify for grants from the Federal Emergency Management Agency.

Rep. Christopher Shays, R-Conn., with Mr. Lantos a co-chair of the Congressional Friends of Animals Caucus, said an estimated 600,000 animals either died or were left without shelter as a result of Hurricane Katrina. He added that the lack of pet rescue plans also put many pet owners in danger.

"When asked to choose between abandoning their pets or their personal safety, many pet owners chose to risk their lives," he said.

The Humane Society of the United States cited a recent poll that found that about half of adults say they would refuse to evacuate if they couldn't take their pets with them.

Passage of the bill, said Humane Society president Wayne Pacelle, would ensure "that Americans will never again be forced to leave their best friends behind to face imminent danger."

Sens. Ted Stevens, R-Alaska, and Frank Lautenberg, D-N.J., have introduced similar legislation that also would give the director of FEMA authority to grant funds to state and local agencies for animal preparedness projects, including the building of emergency shelters.

Antioxidants

Antioxidants

Just like you, your puppy needs excellent nutrition to grow into a healthy adult. He needs high quality food full of the appropriate amounts of vitamins and minerals to develop properly, especially during rapid growth.

Although there are many supplement products that are supposed to be "good" for your growing puppy, it's not necessary to supplement a complete diet with extra vitamins. In fact, it can be harmful. Never give your puppy any supplements unless advised by your veterinarian to do so. Simply feed a high-quality product that includes antioxidants, and your puppy will get everything he needs.

To follow is information on some of the most important vitamins and minerals, and why they are so critical to your pup's health. Your puppy's food should include these antioxidants in its formula.

Vitamin C

We've known for a long time that Vitamin C is good for us, but do our puppies need it, too? Yes. Your puppy is able to create Vitamin C in his own body and, as a result, for many years it was thought puppies didn't need any more Vitamin C than their body could manufacture. Now we know better.

Vitamin C is a "water soluble" vitamin, which means if the body gets more than it needs, it simply excretes it. This trait makes it a generally nontoxic vitamin, although suddenly giving your puppy a larger amount than normal could cause digestive upset.

Vitamin C plays an important role in the formation of collagen, which helps keep your puppy's joints healthy as he grows. It is also recognized as an important anti-stress nutrient. Vitamin C also protects the body against infection and lessens the effects of toxins – all while it boosts the immune system. It's easy to see why this is an important vitamin for your puppy to get everyday.

Vitamin E

Another well known antioxidant, Vitamin E, is a workhorse in the body. It helps protect against certain types of cancer while it improves circulation, supports the nervous system and assists in maintaining healthy skin. In the correct amounts, Vitamin E protects cells from damage caused by stress, poor nutrition, pollution, illness or injury. Your pup cannot create Vitamin E in his own body – he must ingest it with his food. Therefore, making sure Vitamin E is a part of your puppy's diet is very important for his long-term health.

This is a fat-soluble vitamin, which means that the body stores any extra, rather than excreting it. It is possible to give a pup too much, and it can be toxic in very large dosages.

Trace Minerals

"Trace" means that the body needs these minerals in tiny amounts. Examples of the more commonly known trace minerals include copper, zinc, and manganese. Although your puppy's body needs only a small amount of these minerals, they are still very important. These minerals are critical to the functioning of a strong immune system. Your puppy's body cannot manufacture these minerals on its own – he must get them from his food.

Remember, your puppy needs these vitamins and minerals to grow into a healthy adult. However, supplements are not necessary. Simply feed your puppy a quality food that includes antioxidants such as Vitamin C, Vitamin E and trace minerals in its formula.

Good games for your new puppy!

Good games for your pup

Good behavior is largely determined by your puppy's self-control. When asked, a good pup sits even if he'd rather jump, resists when he wants to take, and releases when he wants to hold on. Try to do everything you can to notice and encourage that kind of control. One way to do this is to make sure that the games you play with your puppy foster the behaviors and attitudes you want.

Avoid any game that involves play fighting with your pup (wrestling), competing for possession of an object (tug-of-war), or that has you following your pup's lead (chase!). These can foster combat and competition between human and dog.

Good games like "hide and seek," "find it" and "beat the clock" promote cooperation and self-control. These kinds of games can also help support your leadership in positive ways by reinforcing the "you direct, your pup responds" relationship during play.

Hide and seek

This game is great fun for everyone. Start with one person holding your pup while another hides. Once the person (let's call him Johnny) is hidden, you say, "Where's Johnny? Find Johnny," and you walk with your pup through the house. At first, Johnny may have to make some noise to attract your pup's attention. Once your pup finds him, everyone should praise the pup and tell him how bright he is. Soon your pup will charge around with no encouragement, finding each family member by name.

Find it

This is hide and seek with objects, such as beloved toys or biscuits. Have a friend hold your pup while you place the toy or biscuit a few feet away in plain sight. Return to your pup and say, "Where's the biscuit? Find it. Find the biscuit," and let him go. If he bolts to the biscuit, great. If he doesn't, walk him to the biscuit, point it out, then praise him. As he gets better, make the hiding places harder and harder. Pups can learn many toys and objects by name playing this game. This is a wonderful rainy-day game to play with your puppy.

Beat the clock

This high-speed game teaches your pup to respond quickly to commands – even when excited or distracted. This is something most pups need help with. Put your pup on a leash. Tell him "OK, playtime!" and start to romp. Speak excitedly and move around – do anything to get him happy and interested. Right in the middle of this play, give him a command he knows well, such as "sit." Immediately become still and silent. Guide your puppy into position if you need to. The moment he sits, restart the game. If you do this correctly, being very happy and excited during the play and absolutely silent and still after commands, your pup will quickly learn how to "turn on" the game by obeying you immediately.

These kinds of games help you build a strong relationship with your pup because they can improve how he listens and responds to you now and in the future.

Dog Food and Nutrition – Choosing the Right Dog Food

Dog Food and Nutrition – Choosing the Right Dog Food With so many brands and types of dog food at the market, it might be a daunting task deciding on which type will be right for your dog. For example, a puppy requires different nutrients compared to an adult dog. A working dog has different nutritional needs than a lap dog.

Pet foods can be distinguished more generally based on criteria of cost, place of purchase, nutrient density (number of calories per pound) and, to a lesser degree, palatability and digestibility. Super premium, premium, and non-premium products can all offer 100% complete and balanced nutrition. The characteristics of products vary from one manufacturer to another.

Use this list to help decide which type of dog food is best for your pet:
Specialty or super premium products generally are sold in pet specialty stores and veterinarian offices, carry higher prices, and are usually more energy dense, or have more calories per pound of food. Overfeeding with these products can lead to weight gain faster than products with a lower caloric value. Premium products are traditionally sold at grocery stores but also are available in pet specialty outlets. These types of products are moderately priced. They are generally lower in caloric value compared to super premium products. Check the label. Store brand products are pet foods sold under the store's name as opposed to a national brand name. These foods are designed to offer similar guarantees, ingredients, and performance to the nationally advertised brands at a lower price. Dry food has less moisture and more calories than wet food, so your dog requires less food in order to meet his or her nutritional needs. Canned (wet) food contains more water so it has less calories than dry food. Because canned foods contain more water, it may be difficult for large breed dogs to meet their energy needs before feeling full. Breed size food (large breed vs. small breed) contains nutrient (fat, protein, carbohydrate, minerals, etc.) levels that are appropriate for a specific breed size's metabolism and life stage. For example, some large breed puppy formulas are scientifically formulated to help large breed puppies grow at a normal rate to develop strong bones and joints. Some small breed formulas are developed to provide concentrated nutrition in small, bite-size kibbles that meet a small breed puppy’s high metabolic needs. Although some original puppy formulas are appropriate for puppies of all breed sizes and provide 100% complete and balanced nutrition, they are most appropriate for those puppies that will be neither very small nor very large at maturity. Puppy food is rich in nutrients, such as protein, and calories, which are necessary for growing puppies. These products contain appropriate levels of calcium and phosphorus to help support healthy bone and joint development. Adult food contains the appropriate levels of nutrients that adult dogs need. It is generally not appropriate for pregnant and lactating dogs. Senior food is specifically formulated for dogs over the age of 7. Senior dogs are not necessarily less active or overweight, but they do have different nutritional needs compared to adult dogs. Senior diets should contain increased protein levels to help maintain muscle mass and support a healthy immune system. Weight management food is generally high in protein and fiber and lower in calories and fat content compared to an adult maintenance food. The high protein levels help dogs lose fat and not muscle, while high fiber levels help dogs feel satisfied while losing weight. Performance food is specifically formulated for hardworking and highly active dogs. Homemade dog food runs the risk of containing too much fat for most dogs' needs. Diets high in fat could increase your dog's risk of obesity, high blood pressure, and an elevated heart rate.

OBEDIENCE COMMANDS

OBEDIENCE COMMANDS
The five basic obedience commands every dog should know are sit, stay, down, come and heel. Follow these simple, step-by-step instructions, and keep in mind that it won’t be as easy as flipping a switch. Every dog is different and there are lots of training methods to try. Below are some basic guidelines that have helped many people but if your dog needs something a little different, seek the assistance of a qualified dog behavior professional. Most dogs are easily trained, once you know how.

Sit
You can start working on the ‘sit’ command with puppies as young as seven weeks of age.

• Start by getting your dog’s attention, then using his name and the command. "Max, sit."
• Gently help your dog to the sitting position. Be kind about it – he’s learning, not being bad.
• Praise your dog or give a treat, like a kibble of food, when he sits, even if you had to help him at first. You want to teach him that sitting is always a good thing.
• Repeat the exercise often. One or two five-minute training sessions each day can work wonders.
• Once learned, have your dog sit for everything he wants from a treat to a door opening. This will make you a good leader while also getting in plenty of real-life practice.

Stay
You've taught your puppy to sit but he doesn’t do it for very long. In fact, most of the time it is just long enough to earn a kibble. Now you need to train your dog to stay in one place.

• Once you've got your puppy sitting, put your hand in front of his face and give the command. "Max, stay."
• Slowly turn and step in front of him.
• If your puppy gets up, reposition him into the sit.
• After a few seconds, praise him calmly, then say, “Okay”. Let him get up.
• Repeat until your pup stays put consistently.
• Now, try stepping back a step or two. If your puppy follows you, begin again, gradually increasing the distance.
• Repeat until you can move several feet with your puppy staying in the sit position.
• Remember to praise, but do it calmly. Too much enthusiasm excites him and makes itdifficult to stay.

Down
Once you've taught your dog to ‘sit,’ ‘down’ follows naturally. This command can come in very handy when your dog is headed where he shouldn’t go.

• Start with your dog in the sit position.
• Hold a treat or piece of food in front of your dog's nose.
• Move the food down to the ground, just in front of his front paws then pull the kibble slowly out along the ground, as if you are drawing an ‘L’ with the kibble. With food in your hand, your dog is sure to follow.
• As your dog lies down, say “down” and praise him.
• Repeat often.

Come
‘Come’ is essential for every dog. It is one of the key ways to keep your dog under control, safe and out of trouble.

• Put your dog’s leash on.
• Walk a few steps away with a treat or toy. You my need to put your dog in a ‘sit’ and ‘stay’ to get away.
• Turn and give the ‘come’ command, and praise! Use the lead to bring your dog to you if necessary.
• Reward and praise your dog when he gets to you.
• Start extending the distance and remove the leash when your dog seems to have it.
• Don't scold or use a threatening tone -- he may think you're angry. If you’re upset, coming to you will be the last thing he wants to do. Only give the command once. Dogs learn exactly what we teach them. So if you say “Come-come-come-come” then your dog will think the command is “Come-come-come-come.”

Heel
You see it all too often - a dog leading its owner. Don't let it be you. Teach your dog to walk at your side using the ‘heel’ command.

• If you can, burn off excess energy by playing with your dog before your walk.
• Begin by saying your dog's name and ‘heel’ and reeling him in so his right shoulder is in line with your left hip.
• Give him slack gradually. When he pulls forward, give the command and take sharp right. When your dog finds himself behind you, he'll run to catch up.
• Praise him warmly when he catches up.
• Guard against boredom by keeping your dog busy. Talk to him, have him sit, stay, lie down.
• If he forges ahead, stop and make him sit. Resume the walk and repeat the sit as needed.
• You may also work with him in small clockwise circles. This encourages him to pay attention.
• Many people need to take a training class or two to really get ‘heel’ down. A fun, well-run class is a great way to socialize and train your companion.
  

Potty Training

Potty Training

At 7 weeks your puppy is too young to have good control of its bowels, and will most likely have several accidents, but you can start training this early and maybe your pup will be well trained in a few months. Really though, your puppy should be expected to have accidents for a few more months. He/she isn't mature enough to be able to completely control these functions yet.

Puppies are born with an instinct to keep their beds clean, and a crate builds on that instinct. When the puppy is confined to the crate for the night, he can gradually develop better bowel and bladder control. Of course, that means that you must get the puppy out of the crate and outside as soon, and as often, as he needs to go.

One of the most common mistakes dog owners make is giving their dog too much freedom too soon. Most dogs don't want to take the time to go outside to relieve themselves, especially if the family is inside.

• If you have a new puppy, try the puppy pads with the scent built in to attract the puppy to the pad. I would layer it between newspaper and put it by the door which I eventually want the pup to use to go out. Use a plastic trash bag underneath if you have carpet.
• Every time your puppy wakes up from a nap immediately take him/her outside to go. Just like us they have to go after a long sleep. This works wonders to save on accidents.
• When your pup eats his digestive system stimulates him/her to have a bowel movement within 5-20 minutes. Take the pup out starting at 5 minutes and stay out with him until he has a movement. This will help you determine when he/she will need to go after feeding time.
• As you stand around waiting for your pup to eliminate keep repeating a phrase. This will work later on as a "bathroom" command. I used "hurry up"... mostly 'cause I was standing outside in my bathrobe during the middle of Winter.
• Find your pup's signal. Each one of my chis has his/her own signal that he/she uses to let us know when they have to go out. When you find your chi's signal, and this will take a lot of observation, you will have achieved the most important step.
• Use touch, sounds and affection as the "reward" for a job well done. Otherwise your pet will be asking to go outdoors just to get a food treat.
• NEVER rub your chi's nose in his/her feces or urine. This is an old and outdated cruel method. Do not HIT your puppy. This may cause him tobecome rebellious and you will have a chi that will mess in the house.

 

The Chihuahua is the smallest breed of dog in the world.

Chihuahua

The Chihuahua is the smallest breed of dog in the world and was named after the state of Chihuahua in Mexico. Chihuahuas are graceful, alert, swift-moving little dog with a saucy expression. Two distinct breed types, one with a long coat of soft texture, the other with a short coat. Identical otherwise, both can be whelped in the same litter. Adored for their small size, the Chihuahua is a bright eyed, dainty dog who is perfect for apartment living. Most breeders recommend adopting a Chihuahua puppy between the ages of 4 - 12 months as they will be more mature and agile and not so apt for injury.

Height: 6 - 9 inches
Weight: 2 - 6 lbs.

Colors: Any color or mixture.
Coat: Long: Long, soft to touch, slight waviness is permissible. Short: Short, dense, soft to touch.

Temperament: Chihuahuas are bold, playful
With Children: Yes, If children are gentle.
With Pets: Yes, lives happily with others.
Special Skills: Family pet.

Watch-dog: Very High
Guard-dog: Very Low

Care and Training: Short haired Chihuahua should be brushed gently or wiped with a damp cloth. The long haired Chihuahua should be brushed daily with a soft bristle brush. Bathe only when necessary. Check ears regularly and keep nails trimmed. Should be socialized early. Minimal exercise is required for both variety of Chihuahuas.
Learning Rate: High

Activity: Moderate
Living Environment: Must live indoors, but enjoys outdoor activity

Health Issues: Eye problems, collapsing trachea and dislocating kneecaps.

Life Span: Well into teen years
Litter Size: 1 - 4

Country of Origin: Mexico
History: Discovered in Mexico about 100 years ago. The true origins of their ancestors is still a mystery. It is said they were bred from the small dogs know among the Toltecs of Mexico in the ninth century. Others believed the Chihuahua was the sacred dog of the Aztecs and thirdly there is a possibility they may have existed in Egypt some 3,000 years ago.

First Registered by the AKC: 1904
AKC Group: Toy
Class: Toy
Registries: AKC, CKC, FCI (Group 9), KC (GB)

Hyprocephalus And The Molera

Hyprocephalus And The Molera

Hyprocephalus and the molera are not one in the same and should not be confused as so.  The molera, a soft spot on the top of your Chihuahua's head is similar to that of a new born human and is normal.  This trait is unique to the Chihuahua breed.  Hyprocephalus is the accumulation of excess cerebrospinal fluid in the brain and is not at all normal, nor is it curable.  It is also known as 'water on the brain.'

When fluid accumulates on the brain, it compresses the brain against the skull.  A Chihuahua puppy can be born with this disorder, or it can be caused by a brain infection.  

Check the molera, making certain it is no larger than the tip of your little finger and that there is no swelling, bulging or throbbing, although, dog's with a normal molera can still be hydrocephalic. Check carefully on the sides of the head for  bone as well. Make sure there is no more then one molera, as this is not normal.  Other signs include wide-set eyeballs, blindness, abnormal behavior, waling in circles, slowness (mental and physical), seizures, slow growing puppies and uncoordination.  These signs may come and go or become worse over time.  Concerns should only be answered by a licensed veterinarian.

Diagnosis is based on the signs in conjunction with techniques to image the brain. In dogs with a fontanel (molera), ultrasound can be performed by scanning through the fontanel to detect the excessive accumulation of fluid within the brain.  Unfortunately, there is no cure for hydrocephalus.  Mild cases can be treated with steroids to reduce pressure or with a shunt to divert fluid from the brain to the abdomen.  Severe cases in puppies usually cause death before 4 months of age.

For more information contact your Veterinarian.

Hypoglycemia

Hypoglycemia

Hypoglycemia is a condition where the blood sugar level drops to an extremely low level, causing 'sugar shock.'  When levels of glucose in the blood drop rapidly, the body and brain are deprived of essential nutrients.  Results are weakness and seizures.  Usually this is due to stress, illness, lack of food, or by using up stored energy without it being replenished. Small Chihuahuas can be prone to this because they have such small digestive systems.

To prevent low blood sugar, small Chihuahuas should have small frequent meals and plenty of time to rest.  Another preventative for this is to feed your dog Nutrical, available from your Veterinarian or your local pet store. Nutrical gives your dog the vitamins needed with a single inch strip in the morning and in the evening.  Vanilla yogurt mixed in their food is also another good source. 

There is not much warning when a dog is experiencing a hypoglycemic episode.  The dog will appear tired, weak and sleepy in the beginning.  The dog may also fall over, become unconscious or begin to seizure. When this happens rub Nutrical or Nutristat on the dog's gums and the roof of it's mouth, so that it is absorbed in the dog's blood stream.  Another good source of sugar is honey or Karo syrup.  Keep the dog warm in a blanket or with a heating pad.  You should see improvement in 15 to 30 minutes with the intake of sugar.  However, it is always recommended to bring the dog to the veterinarian, as they may be in need of a glucose IV.

Each time a Chihuahua is threatened by hypoglycemia it takes much more to bring them out of it the next time. It is much easier to prevent hypoglycemia by always providing a readily available sugar supply, frequent meals and a warm bed, then to have to treat it once it happens.

Hypoglycemia can also be hereditary, so be sure to know about your dog's lineage.

Information from the American Kennel Club

Information from the 
American Kennel Club

Chihuahua
Toy Group
Breed Standard

General Appearance
A graceful, alert, swift-moving little dog with saucy expression, compact, and with terrier-like qualities of temperament.

Size, Proportion, Substance
Weight A well balanced little dog not to exceed 6 pounds. Proportion The body is off-square; hence, slightly longer when measured from point of shoulder to point of buttocks, than height at the withers. Somewhat shorter bodies are preferred in males. Disqualification Any dog over 6 pounds in weight.

Head
A well rounded "apple dome" skull, with or without molera. Expression Saucy. Eyes Full, but not protruding, balanced, set well apart-luminous dark or luminous ruby. (Light eyes in blond or white-colored dogs permissible.) Ears Large, erect type ears, held more upright when alert, but flaring to the sides at a 45 degree angle when in repose, giving breadth between the ears. Muzzle Moderately short, slightly pointed. Cheeks and jaws lean. Nose Self-colored in blond types, or black. In moles, blues, and chocolates, they are self-colored. In blond types, pink nose permissible. Bite Level or scissors. Overshot or undershot bite, or any distortion of the bite or jaw, should be penalized as a serious fault. Disqualifications Broken down or cropped ears.

Neck, Topline, Body
Neck Slightly arched, gracefully sloping into lean shoulders. Topline Level. Body Ribs rounded and well sprung (but not too much "barrel-shaped"). Tail Moderately long, carried sickle either up or out, or in a loop over the back, with tip just touching the back. (Never tucked between legs.) Disqualifications Cropped tail, bobtail.

Forequarters
Shoulders Lean, sloping into a slightly broadening support above straight forelegs that set well under, giving a free play at the elbows. Shoulders should be well up, giving balance and soundness, sloping into a level back. (Never down or low.) This gives a chestiness, and strength of forequarters, yet not of the "Bulldog" chest. Feet A small, dainty foot with toes well split up but not spread, pads cushioned. (Neither the hare nor the cat foot.) Pasterns Fine.

Hindquarters
Muscular, with hocks well apart, neither out nor in, well let down, firm and sturdy. The feet are as in front.

Coat
In the Smooth Coats, the coat should be of soft texture, close and glossy. (Heavier coats with undercoats permissible.) Coat placed well over body with ruff on neck preferred, and more scanty on head and ears. Hair on tail preferred furry. In Long Coats, the coat should be of a soft texture, either flat or slightly curly, with undercoat preferred. Ears-Fringed. (Heavily fringed ears may be tipped slightly if due to the fringes and not to weak ear leather, never down.) Tail-Full and long (as a plume). Feathering on feet and legs, pants on hind legs and large ruff on the neck desired and preferred. Disqualification-In Long Coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness.

Color
Any color-Solid, marked or splashed.

Gait
The Chihuahua should move swiftly with a firm, sturdy action, with good reach in front equal to the drive from the rear. From the rear, the hocks remain parallel to each other, and the foot fall of the rear legs follows directly behind that of the forelegs. The legs, both front and rear, will tend to converge slightly toward a central line of gravity as speed increases. The side view shows good, strong drive in the rear and plenty of reach in the front, with head carried high. The topline should remain firm and the backline level as the dog moves.

Temperament
Alert, with terrier-like qualities.

DISQUALIFICATIONS
Any dog over 6 pounds in weight.
Broken down or cropped ears.
Cropped tail, bobtail.
In Long Coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness.

Approved September 11, 1990
Effective October 30, 1990